Easter Sunday and Wet Monday

We had a lovely Easter Sunday yesterday. We prepared eggs on Saturday. We did not dye eggs this year. They have Easter egg dye but I opted not to do that. We bought the plastic egg wraps that you put around the hard boiled egg.

When you dip it in boiling water the plastic adheres to the egg and it worked out just dandy. 

Trey was of course, the first one up on Easter morning. He woke everyone up and headed right down the stairs to see if the Easter Bunny had found us in Poland. Fortunately, the Easter Bunny keeps good tabs on people and knew where we were. Trey found eggs and candy hidden around the house.

Poor Ben was so tired and could barely keep his eyes open for all of the Easter morning festivities! 

We headed off to Mass at 9:30 dressed in our Easter finery. We were very surprised that there were so few people at church. Usually Masses here are full, and last week on Palm Sunday it was packed. At home, Masses on Easter are standing room only. Maybe people went to a different Mass or an unusual number of people were traveling out of town.

After Mass we went to our neighbor's home for an excellent Easter lunch. They had ham, turkey, white kielbasa, and many side dishes and desserts. They served bigos (Polish stew) that was delicious. I asked if they would teach me to make it before we leave Poland.

They said they would teach me to make bigos if I would let them in on my secret brownie recipe. Deal! I will pick up some Betty Crocker next time I am at Walmart and will send some boxes their way. I am definitely getting the better end of that arrangement!

In Poland, the Monday after Easter is still a holiday. Many stores are closed and all kids are off of school. Kids in Poland splash water on passersby the day after Easter. It is considered good luck to be sprinkled with water. Our neighbors warned us yesterday to be on the lookout for kids with buckets of water! We had read about this tradition and had bought water guns, so we were prepared. Here is Trey on the balcony attempting to squirt the people walking by our house on the sidewalk.

We did not see too much action in front of our house, so Myles took the kids for a walk to see if they could stir up any trouble. Trey (in green) found a like minded little fellow and they sprayed each other.

They found a bunch of kids at a park and hung out there for a while, but most of the water play was finished.

We are looking forward to some nice weather this week (in the 50s). Spring has come to Gdansk!

Malbork Castle

On Thursday we took a day trip to the town of Malbork, Poland. We have taken the train many times south to Warszawa and beyond. On each of these trips we have passed the beautiful Malbork Castle. It is massive and a very impressive sight. We decided to take Pam there with us on her last day here in Poland.

We took a train at 11:00 a.m. and arrived in Malbork at about noon. We walked from the train station through their little downtown area where there were several cute little shops and restaurants.

We had a quick lunch at the Malbork McDonald's, which is right on the walking path to the castle. We then went to the castle and went on a tour with an English speaking guide. Malbork is the largest castle in Europe. This picture is only of a small section.

It was first built by the Teutonic Knights in what was then known as Prussia in the 1200s.

It has seen it's share of battles over the centuries. But the fortification was very strong and deliberate. There were moats 17 meters deep. They have been drained now. There are three fortification walls to keep enemies out. The walls are four or five meters thick. This is a very impressive place. Here are Ben and Trey in the courtyard with centuries old cannon balls.

Over the years there had been restorations but the castle continued to stand. Until 1945.

WWII was brutal in Poland. The castle was destroyed by Russians and Germans. We saw bullet holes in some of the bricks from one of the battles. The Church of the Virgin Mary, part of the castle, has been left in ruins. Our guide told us that there is constant debate about what to do with it. Some want to restore it and some want to leave it as it is. Myles asked our guide what her opinion is. She said that she wants to leave it as it is as a reminder of the war.

We ended our Malbork visit with dinner at a local restaurant and then we took a train back to Gdansk.

Pam left us this morning to head back to her family in California. We are so glad she made this big trip to visit us and we are missing her already.

My First European Adventure

Obviously from the title, this isn't Lisa blogging. This is her sister Pam, and I am visiting the Gartlands in Poland, and this is my first time in Europe. I left my home in California last Thursday afternoon. I stood in the security line next to a guy from Israel who just couldn't believe that I was spending my first visit to Europe in Poland. I didn't mind - you have to start somewhere!
 

I arrived in Poland on Friday afternoon after getting very little sleep on the plane. Who knew that they would snap on all of the lights at 12:30 am and start serving breakfast? I met a wonderful German couple on the flight to Frankfurt and they took me under their wing and walked me through customs. It was so nice to finally arrive in Gdansk and see Lisa and Trey smiling and waving.

The weather was overcast and a little chilly. It was just what I expected Poland to be like. Lisa pointed out some of the sites in Gdansk on the cab ride home. The first thing that struck me was the incredible amount of graffiti on all the walls and buildings. There are some areas in CA that are like that, but this was everywhere. I didn't expect it in a town the size of Gdansk. We arrived at their cute little house where Ben, Natalie and Abbie were waiting with open arms. I unloaded my stash of supplies from the states - taco seasoning, beef jerky, brownie mix and girl scout cookies, to name a few.

They seemed very pleased to have these reminders of home. I hate to think of all the things that I would miss if I were away from home for a year. The next couple of days were low key. They introduced me to the public transit system and we took the bus to go shopping for Easter dresses.

One thing that struck me was the number of people out and about on the streets. I'm used to seeing a lot of traffic, but not people just walking around on the streets. Another thing I noticed was that people didn't greet you when you passed them. They ignore you completely, and they rarely smile. I think that Lisa described them as "stoic." It was unsettling.

On Sunday we went to church, and I've never been to a mass where I couldn't understand what they were saying. It was interesting, and I knew what they doing, but I felt strangely disconnected. I wonder if people used to feel this way when they said masses in Latin. We were there on Palm Sunday and they did a fun procession around the outside of the church with homemade palm creations.

The church was filled to capacity. You rarely see that at home unless it is Christmas or Easter.

Myles returned home on Saturday and made sure that I was not only having a good time, but was also learning something. We went to the Solidarity Museum on Monday and it was very interesting.

I vaguely remember hearing about the solidarity movement when I was eleven or twelve, but the magnitude didn't sink in until I was standing in the spot where the protests happened.

Lisa took me to tour a concentration camp not far from their town. I can't say that I enjoyed it, but it was something that I will always remember. The Polish people have been through so many hard times. Perhaps that is why they all seem so solemn.

We did a lot of shopping after that and took a train trip up to the coast where I made friends with the swans and got to dip my hand into the frigid Baltic Sea.

We finished off the week with trips to Old Town Gdansk and an all day excursion to Malbork, the oldest castle in Poland.

Myles asked me to reflect on what was my favorite part of my trip and what surprised me the most. My favorite part had to be Old Town Gdansk. It was very picturesque and what I envisioned Europe to be like.

You could almost hear horse hoofs clattering along the cobblestone streets. The most surprising thing was how the city was laid out in such a hodgepodge fashion. I'm used to a community with lots of zoning regulations. Here, you have small businesses stuck here there and everywhere with no rhyme or reason that I could see. There are huge, ugly apartment buildings everywhere that were built in the communist era. It seems so strange to see a beautiful centuries-old church next to one of these monsters. This difference was very obvious when we went up to visit Myles' university. They had beautiful gothic buildings next to ugly utilitarian communist ones.

This week flew by so fast. The Gartlands were wonderful hosts and tour guides. I went on buses, trains, trams and taxis, and walked for miles and miles. I did my best to stimulate the Polish economy. I would have bought more, but I'm only allowed one checked in bag at the airport. I am amazed at how well the G's have adjusted to their new life. I still think I would get lost going back to their house from the bus stop, but they've mastered school, grocery shopping and ordering at restaurants. I've enjoyed my time in Poland, but would like to explore some other parts of Europe the next time I come.

Shopping on Długa and Sightseeing in Sopot

On Tuesday we took P to see the university where Myles is working. We walked on the campus and he gave her the guided tour. We had lunch at the little cafeteria in the Business School.

 

We then went to the tourist section of Gdansk. We wandered around, shopped and ate ice cream.

We walked P through the Torture Museum and she enjoyed trying some of the torture methods out.

We found a very nice Polish cuisine restaurant and had a wonderful dinner together. 

 

P tried out some of Poland's finest pierogies and thought they were very tasty.

Today P, Abbie, Trey and I went out on our own. Ben had some homework to do and Natalie did not feel well so they stayed home (she is feeling fine now). Myles had to work all day today. We walked over to the kids' school so that P could see the journey we take to get there every Monday. We then walked to the train station and took a train about 15 minutes to the resort town of Sopot. We had lunch and did some more shopping. We walked along the pier and the day was a beautiful 61 degrees. My California sister was still sporting her winter coat but we were taking ours off!

We walked under the pier for no good reason at all.

Tomorrow is P's last full day here with us. We will be heading an hour south on the train to Malbork. There is a castle there that belonged to the Teutonic Knights in the 13th century.

Stutthof

Yesterday P, Natalie and I went to go see Stutthof. Abbie was invited but she declined. She was with us when we went to Auschwitz and does not want any further education on concentration camps at this point. I am fine with that. This is heavy stuff. This camp museum forbids kids under 13 so Myles stayed home with Trey. Myles and Ben are going on their own in the next couple of weeks. Sztutowo is the name of the town and Stutthof is the German version of that. Sztutowo (Shtu-toe-vo) is about 40 kilometers--25 miles--outside of Gdansk. A friend of ours had been there and gave me instructions how to get there by bus. We arrived at the bus station downtown and waited for our 9:15 bus to arrive.

We got on the bus and started on our way. It takes about an hour to get to Sztutowo. About halfway there our bus driver stops along the side of the road and gets out to have a smoke. Then about 15 mintues later he stops and gets out to make a cell phone call.

About 15 minutes later we arrive at our destination. It is out in the middle of nowhere and our bus stop was simply a sign on the side of the road.

In this picture you can see railroad tracks by Natalie's feet. These were the tracks that brought more than 100,000 people to the Stutthof concentration camp. The entrance to the concentration camp is across the street and down a block or so. This sign is original and visible from the street.

This camp was set up at the very beginning of WWII, and the first people to be brought here were people from Gdansk and the area. Jews were not brought to this camp until 1944. The people brought here were normal citizens, mostly men, who were seen as opposing the goals of the Germans. This camp was cruel and similar to Auschwitz and Birkeneau in several ways. People were treated badly. People worked in harsh conditions. All children brought to Stutthof were immediately killed. Little food and inadequate clothing were provided. There were gas chambers and crematoriums. We did not see inside the gas chamber but the guide told us that there are obvious marks on the walls inside where desperate people tried to claw their way out when the poisonous Cyclone B was dropped in. Horrific. 65,000 people were exterminated here and 20,000 more died from disease.

People who survived the camp return on occasion for ceremonies and meetings. There are boards telling some of their stories.

This is a memorial to all the Catholics who died at the camp. In the background is a cattle car like the ones that brought thousands of humans to this place.

This is a memorial to the Jews who were brought here and perished.

This monument is huge and honors all of the people who suffered deplorable conditions and lost their lives at Stutthof.

The parish that we attend here in Gdansk is Saint Stanislaus. We walk there every Sunday, so it is close. On September 2, 1939, the pastor of this parish, Bronisław Komorowski,was abducted and taken to Stutthof along with others. He was murdered there on Good Friday of 1940. There are several pictures of him displayed at Stutthof. One was taken before this trouble and Saint Stanislaus church is in the background. The church looks the same now. This really brings the horror of what happened to life for us. There is a cemetery about two blocks from our house where many of the victims of Stutthof are buried, or at least are recognized.

After our tour we walked a few blocks to the bus stop to head back to Gdansk. We had to wait for about an hour for the bus, but the roosters by the stop kept us entertained.

The bus finally came and we made it home in the late afternoon and relaxed for a while. Then we all went out for pizza for dinner.

Palm Sunday

I am having a great time with my sister in town! On Saturday it was rainy and in the low 40s. She was still getting acclimated to the time difference so we had a low key day. We went to our nearby mall and shopped with the girls for Easter dresses. They each found one that they are happy with and they both found new spring shoes to match their outfits. We enjoyed wandering around and visiting. Ben and Trey took the bus and met us at the mall for lunch. Then we came home and hung around the house for the rest of the day. Myles arrived home from his trip to France in the evening.

Daylight Savings Time started for us today, so we lost our hour last night. Pam is extra lucky this year. Not everyone gets to spring forward twice in one year (at home in California two weeks ago and now here)! Fortunately, she is still time confused so another lost hour is not having too much of an effect on her. This morning we went to Mass for Palm Sunday. I had decided before we went to church that we were not going to get palms to bring home. Well that all changed when I arrived at church! We walked in and everyone was holding beautiful handmade palm creations. These are so pretty and we do not have anything like this at home for Palm Sunday.

There were children singing and holding their "palms" (for lack of a better word) up high. Whenever they got to the refrain where Jesus is mentioned, they waved their palms around. It was an impressive and very sweet scene. Well, I could not resist, and we did get one of these creations. Mass started and the priest blessed all of the people and the palms. Then he started down the aisle and all of the people followed him. I had no idea where we were going but we didn't want to miss out, so we followed along. He went out the side door and all of the altar boys and the congregation followed. A couple of altar boys had microphones and speakers physically attached to themselves and were singing.

We made one lap around the outside of the church and then went back in. Everyone was in a different seat than we started out in. We were at the end of the procession so there were no seats left. We ended up going up the stairs to the choir loft and sitting up there with some others who had also lost their seats. The rest of Mass was the same as always. We are looking forward to seeing the Easter celebration. On our way home from church we stopped by the grocery store. There was a guy outside, dressed in a dingy gray bunny costume, holding his bunny head, smoking a cigarette. Wish I had a picture of that!

In the afternoon we took Pam to the small Solidarity Museum and to the memorial for the ship builders who were killed in 1970. We had been there before but it was interesting to see again. Here are Pam and Natalie by the "dominoes" at the museum.

They symbolize the chain reaction that occurred when Poland finally broke free from communism. The rest of the countries that were under Soviet control soon broke free as well. After the museum we walked to one of our favorite restaurants here. It is a Turkish restaurant with really yummy kebabs. It's only kind of Turkish because they also have pizza that the kids love. We saw this cute, little, old lady on the way to the restaurant. She is holding a pigeon that is eating out of her hand. I love her hat, her cane and her intense focus on that bird!

After dinner we had to take a tram and a bus home. As we exited the tram we saw our bus coming down the street. We had to run to catch it, and we did! P is learning lots about public transportation. It is quite exciting! Tomorrow P, Natalie and I are going to the Stutthof Musuem. WWII started here in Gdansk on September 1, 1939. Stutthof was the first concentration camp. It was set up September 2, 1939 and it was the last one to be shut down. This will be a somber visit but I think since we are in this part of the world we are obligated to learn and understand what happened here.

P Has Landed

After much anticipation, my sister's visit to Poland is finally here!

Trey and I went to the airport to pick her up. Her plane was right on time. She flew 11 hours from Los Angeles to Frankfurt and then another hour and a half from Frankfurt to Gdansk. She sure did not look any the worse for wear after that long journey! We arrived home (via taxi) at about 6:30 p.m. We had dinner and then all sat around visiting for the evening. Gdansk is eight hours ahead of California right now. On Sunday we will join the rest of the world in Daylight Savings Time and will then be nine hours ahead. So she has some time adjusting to do.

Look what she brought us! It's hard to tell in the picture, but those are Girl Scout Cookies! Thin Mints!

She brought Ben's paperwork for re-enrolling at Aquinas. I asked Aquinas to send the information to her since we knew she was coming. She also brought beef jerky for Ben and his friends.

We got taco seasoning! That is a very good thing since I cannot find anything close to it here. She brought six packets. That should last us for the next not quite three months!

And brownie mix--American treats! The box even says "America's Favorite!"

We are planning to go to the mall tomorrow to find some Easter dresses for the girls. Pam also wants to see those swans at the beach. I think tomorrow is going to be the warmest day she is here so we will try to get there tomorrow as well. Oh, and today was 68 degrees by the way. What a happy, happy day! Tomorrow is only supposed to be in the 50s but we will take it. Looks like spring has finally made it to Poland.

Myles is still in France but comes home tomorrow night. We will be glad to have him back home as well.